The following is my piece in the March 5, 2020 edition of
the Philadelphia Jewish Link about the Kosher Food & Wine Experience in New
York City:
Fabulous Food and Fine Wine at an Extraordinary Event
The excitement was building even before people made their
way through the front door. “I cut my vacation short to come back for this,”
said one gentleman as he stood outside on the security line. “I never miss this
event,” declared another individual as he chatted with his friends while waiting
for the doors to open.
The Kosher Food & Wine Experience (KFWE) is undoubtedly
New York’s premier kosher food and wine extravaganza. The 14th annual KFWE,
which took place on Monday, February 17th, at Chelsea Piers in Manhattan,
showcased fine kosher wines from around the globe and specialty foods prepared
by renowned kosher chefs and caterers.
KFWE was hosted by Royal Wine Corp., which was founded in
1848 and is owned and operated in the United States by the Herzog family, whose
winemaking roots date back eight generations to 19th century Czechoslovakia.
Headquartered in Bayonne, NJ, Royal Wine Corp. is the leading producer,
importer and distributor of kosher wines and spirits, offering more than 300
brands in its portfolio.
PJL Publisher Nachi Troodler with Ambassador Dani Dayan |
Thousands of people attended the sold-out event, balancing
wine glasses and plates topped with innovative cuisine as they endeavored to
make their way through the room, which was filled to capacity. Conversation was
made, much wine was poured, and plenty of food was consumed.
In addition to an endless sea of wine and spirit bottles
representing over 60 wineries, the culinary offerings spanned the gamut – from
kosher poke and street tacos, to barbecue style smoked salmon and creamy
non-dairy frozen gelato pops.
It was in essence a “who’s who” of kosher restaurants and
caterers, including Buffalo2go, Graze, Judd’s Memphis Kitchen, Kosher Poke, Le
Marais, Marani, Reserve Cut VIP Experience, Sushi Tokyo, T Fusion Steakhouse,
Taam Eden Bakery, The Hangry Heifer, The Loft, UN Plaza Grill, Urban Pops, and
Wall Street Grill.
Sampling some of the scrumptious offerings was a real treat.
The “Meat Pizza Rolls” (I partook of both the Sloppy Joe and BBQ Pulled Brisket
varieties) by Silverleaf Caterers, which is based in New Rochelle, NY, were phenomenal.
Weiss Brothers Catering, which is based in Linden, NJ, had a
large display, where I got to try a number of their dishes. Their lamb sliders
were quite tender, with the mouthwatering meat nestled between two soft buns.
The cholent (yes, I had cholent on a Monday), was delicious – it had great
texture and an abundance of meat. Of course, I could not pass up their mini hot
dogs, which were very flavorful and left no doubt that they were freshly made.
Great Falls Bistro, which is in Passaic, NJ, had an array of
different dishes that they were offering, including their signature rib-eye,
which was cooked to perfection and virtually melted in my mouth, bourbon
gelato, which was cool and refreshing, waffle chicken, lemon squares, chocolate
brownie bites, and pastrami parmesan, which was made with vegan cheese.
At the table hosted by West Wing/Diamond Caterers, which is
based in Woodmere, NY, I enjoyed a chicken slider that was breaded to
perfection, as well as a tasty plate of wings.
United Airlines made its KFWE debut and presented samples
from its new menu, which is available to its Polaris business class clients on
flights between Newark and Tel Aviv, including everything from blintzes and
bagels to kale quinoa burgers served with Herzog wines.
PJL Publisher Nachi Troodler with Etti Edri of Carmel Winery |
As far as the wines and spirits at KFWE, it was a veritable
smorgasbord of the finest kosher wines on the market today.
“An extraordinary bounty of wines from all over the world is
coming to market in 2020,” said Nathan Herzog, President of Royal Wine Corp.
“This year’s most extraordinary bottlings included Château Léoville Poyferré
Saint Julien 2017, Château Giscours Margaux 2017, Flam Noble 2016, Champagne
Drappier Rosé de Saignée, and Herzog Single Vineyard Calistoga 2016.”
This year also marked the 30th anniversary of kosher wine
production by the acclaimed House of Rothschild. “We were delighted to
celebrate with the introduction of Barons Edmond and Benjamin de Rothschild
Haut-Médoc Anniversary Edition 2016 and their first-ever kosher Château Clarke
Listrac-Médoc 2016,” said Herzog.
Jay Buchsbaum of Royal Wine Corp. noted the steady increase
in the kosher wine market in recent years. “Consumption of kosher wine is
outpacing general market consumption by more than 100%, with an average price
of $20+ per bottle,” he said. “Every year sees more and more kosher wines
earning top scores and prestigious awards from the industry.”
KFWE seemed to have it all. Barkan Vineyards presented its
Cabernet Sauvignon from the Alma vineyard in the Upper Galil, which is aged in
oak barrels for 18 months and is a light and fruity wine. J. de Villebois, a
family-owned winery in France, offered its Caillottes Cuvée, which is made from
grapes grown on the Calcareous soils originated in the Upper Oxfordian, and is
a wonderfully aromatic wine. Boondocks had its American Whiskey, which is both
fruity and spicy, and has a creamy and buttery mouthfeel.
Israel-based Psagot Winery, which is fighting against
anti-Israel discrimination and anti-Israel boycotts in Europe, was also at
KFWE. Psagot sued the French government and challenged a ruling that Jewish
products made in Judea and Samaria, including wine made by the Psagot Winery,
be marked “made in an Israeli colony.”
Barkan Vineyards, which produces over 15 million bottles
annually from over 2,500 acres of vineyards across Israel that are exported to
more than 45 countries, also showcased their products. Domain du Castel, a
family estate winery located 10 miles west of Jerusalem that was founded by Eli
Ben Zaken in 1992, was pouring their Rosé, which is a fine blend of early
picked Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc grapes.
Tabor Winery, whose Founder and CEO Oren Sela is 4th
generation of a family of grape growers in Kfar Tabor, Israel, had its Premium
series Storm (or Sufa in Hebrew), which is a full-bodied wine that is a blend
of Petite Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Alexander Winery, a boutique winery in Israel that was
founded in 1996 and is located in Beit Yitzhak, on the Mediterranean coast
between Haifa and Tel Aviv, also drew a crowd. People enjoyed their Grand
Reserve, which is part of their flagship Alexander the Great label, and is made
primarily from Cabernet Sauvignon, grown in a vineyard in the Upper Galil that
was planted in 1978, and aged in small French oak barrels for two years, and
then for another two years in brand new, small French oak barrels.
Jezreel Valley Winery, which is located in Kibbutz Hannaton
in Israel, offered attendees their Alfa Special Reserve, which is a rich red
wine with intense black fruit aromas that is aged in oak barrels for 22 months.
I saw my friend Geoff Rochwarger, who became a partner in
Covenant Winery last summer. Covenant, which produces wine in California and
Israel, offers high-end kosher wines, and its immense popularity was evident
from the throngs of people at KFWE who waited in line to try their various
offerings.
“Carmel has been coming to KFWE since Day 1,” said Etti
Edri, Export Manager for Carmel Winery. “KFWE is one of the most important, if
not the most important show, because this is our way to expose our wines to all
kinds of categories – restaurants, stores, etc.”
“The room is packed not just because this is one of the
famous shows, but also because the Herzog family and Royal Wine do an amazing
job spreading the word that it’s not just about being kosher; it’s about
high-quality wine that happens to be kosher,” she added.
In addition to the unbelievable food and wine, one of the
most intriguing parts of KFWE was learning about the different wineries and
hearing the stories behind their formation and mission.
PJL Publisher Nachi Troodler with Aharon Ziv of Or Haganuz Winery |
I had the opportunity to speak with Aharon Ziv, the winemaker
at Or Haganuz Winery. Or Haganuz is a yishuv community in the upper Galil near
Meron that was established in 2005.
“It’s based on the social rule of ve-ahavta le-re’acha
ka-mocha (love your neighbor as yourself),” Ziv told me as he described the special
characteristics of Or Haganuz. “When the Jews received the Torah, they were
k’ish echad b’lev echad (like one man with one heart), they were united. This
is what we try to do in Or Haganuz.”
In Or Haganuz, the sense of community is extraordinarily strong.
In fact, the winery is a business that belongs to the community and the
community actually owns it.
“It’s somewhat like a kibbutz, but we’re doing it because we
believe it’s God’s mitzvah to do it,” Ziv said. “It has a real community feel,
in that each person is working for the community, and the community is working
for your needs. I make the wine the best way I can because this is something
that I’m taking care of for the community.”
Aside from its solid community-centric foundation, Or
Haganuz Winery is all about producing high quality wine.
“We are doing really well, because every year we produce
more and more,” Ziv said as he noted that approximately 40% of production goes
to export, and about 60% of the 40% goes to the United States.
“This show is important for me because I meet the people who
drink the wine and hear about what they think about the wine, what they want,
and what we could change,” Ziv said while explaining the vital role that KFWE
plays. “This is important for me and it’s important for the winery because this
exhibition exposes us to other people who don’t know about Or Haganuz.”
Ziv also offered me some perspective on the evolution of the
world of fine wines, remarking that historically, most people would typically
drink just for Kiddush. If you gave people in Israel dry wine to drink, they
did not enjoy it, as they much preferred the sweet wine that they were
accustomed to. Those days are long gone.
“Or Haganuz picks the best grapes and we use the best
process to make the wine – we put it in barrels, and we age it under the sun,”
Ziv said. “We make very impressive wine. In that way, we started to teach the
community how to drink good wine, and now many Orthodox Jews, especially in
Israel, know how to drink good wine. Every time I come here (KFWE), people tell
me that they learned to drink wine because of our winery.”
PJL Publisher Nachi Troodler with Tal Bendor of Tulip Winery |
Tulip Winery was founded in 2003 by the Yitzchaki family,
which had three distinct goals according to Bendor. One, produce high quality
wine, make good wine for a good price, and be approachable to the public. Two,
do things that are different and special, as opposed to simply being generic,
including making different varieties that you do not ordinarily see. Three,
contribute to society.
They opened the winery in a community in Israel called Kfar
Tikva (Village of Hope), which is almost like a kibbutz and is a community for
adults with special needs. Established in 1964 on the Zeid Hills in the Jezreel
Valley near Kiryat Tivon, Kfar Tikva has approximately 200 members with various
age ranges, disabilities, and degrees of functionality. 90% of Tulip’s staff,
which totals about 40 employees, are adults with special needs and mental
challenges. “They are a big part of our winery and a big part of everything we
do every day,” Bendor said.
Bendor told me about “Tulip at Home,” which was a drawing
competition that invited all of the residents of the village to draw what home
means to them. Tulip then labeled 1,000 bottles with four winning drawings and
the profits from those bottles went to renovating the apartments in the
village.
In 2010, Tulip Winery launched a competition called “Don’t
Label Me” between four foundations for children with various syndromes, in
which they needed to draw a picture of tulips. “The reason for that competition
was to show that you can label wine, but you can’t label people,” Bendor said.
“The story of the drawing is on the back of the bottle and people can read it
and it really has an impact.”
Bendor proudly showed me one of the bottles labeled with the
winning drawing, which was drawn by David Ashkenazi, a 16-year-old with Down
syndrome.
When they gathered all of the contest participants in the
winery and announced the winner, Ro’i Yitzchaki, the winemaker and winery
owner, showed David the bottle, and he was so excited. The young man thought
that his drawing was on only one bottle until they told him to turn around and
he suddenly saw that the entire display had the label that he had drawn. Yitzchaki
saw David’s excitement and told him that as long as he is a part of the winery,
that would remain the label of their flagship wine. “Ever since then, this has
been the label of our flagship wine, Black Tulip,” Bendor said.
I asked Bendor about the importance of being at KFWE and
showcasing their products there. “For us, it’s very important to be there when
you meet both with the vendors that support our brand and also the actual
customers – to see them, see their reaction, and see their support,” he
replied. “It’s through that connection to the market that we can see where we
are and if we are doing things the right way. The exposure is so important.”
The savory food samples and the scintillating stories made
KFWE a very memorable experience. If you enjoy good food and appreciate fine
wine, attendance at KFWE is mandatory.
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